Surf is up and big due to swells.

Waves were crazy and rolling into the beach whichever way. There were diagonal waves. Normally we have a rip tide but there seem to be more than two.

Frank sat out half an hour and reluctantly went in. Jonas bailed. Steve went in and caught waves. Steve is most cautious surfer I have seen. I liked his ripping style, not jerky but smooth.

Wind picked up and it made carrying the board difficult. So much so I needed align the board with wind direction. Instead of catching waves, I did smooth pop ups and gripping with feet.

I am popping up much smoother than before that I started using thighs and feet. I did about half dozen pop ups in difficult condition. I did the same number afterwards.

My front foot is kind of wobly but it eventually steadies. The key is lower stance, super lower stance to deal with crazy waves and boils.

I had a fun session.