Surf is up and big due to swells.

Waves were crazy and rolling into the beach whichever way. There were diagonal waves. Normally we have a rip tide but there seem to be more than two.

Frank sat out half an hour and reluctantly went in. Jonas bailed. Steve went in and caught waves. Steve is most cautious surfer I have seen. I liked his ripping style, not jerky but smooth.

Wind picked up and it made carrying the board difficult. So much so I needed align the board with wind direction. Instead of catching waves, I did smooth pop ups and gripping with feet.

I am popping up much smoother than before that I started using thighs and feet. I did about half dozen pop ups in difficult condition. I did the same number afterwards.

My front foot is kind of wobly but it eventually steadies. The key is lower stance, super lower stance to deal with crazy waves and boils.

I had a fun session.

Two weeks ago, I started learning to surf. Now, I catch a few waves and stand and surf. Surfing is complicated to learn since waves never stay the same plus the nature changes.

Most of time, I was learning to become comfortable with the ocean. It is big part of surfing; enjoying the nature. It is knowing myself to take as little and as much as I can take while my body adapts to new environments.  Nutrition is the key and rest is the key.

Paddling is surfing. I learned S stroke which entails paddling with thumb first and paddling outward. Deep dip, cup your hands, past your hips.... They don't work. Plus past your hips will probably give scar tissues in your shoulder when you get older.

Pop up is not about putting your feet on the board. It is about pushing the board down with hands and hips to bring feet in the right place. It is not about push up as I thought.

Evolution continues.

Sometime ago, a friend told me surfing is the best powder in the world. That is how it got started.  I contacted my climbing buddy, Doug living in Costa Rica for beginner place to learn.

This is my journal of surfing mistakes and lessons.